Mastering the Art of Affinage: A Beginner’s Guide to Cheese Aging

The world of cheese is vast and complex, with flavors and textures that can transport your senses to new heights. Behind every great cheese lies the art of affinage – a process that transforms a simple curd into a masterpiece of taste and aroma. This guide will introduce you to the fascinating world of cheese aging, helping you understand the techniques and principles that elevate cheese from good to extraordinary.

What is Affinage and Why is it Important in Cheese Making?

Affinage, derived from the French word “to refine,” is the careful process of aging cheese to develop its full flavor, aroma, and texture potential. It’s a crucial stage in cheese production that can make the difference between an ordinary cheese and an exceptional one.

Understanding the Concept of Affinage

Affinage isn’t just about leaving cheese to age; it’s an active process that involves careful monitoring and manipulation of environmental conditions. This process can take anywhere from a few weeks for soft cheeses to several years for hard varieties. During this time, the cheese undergoes complex chemical and biological changes that develop its unique characteristics.

The Role of an Affineur in Cheese Aging

An affineur is a skilled professional who oversees the aging process of cheese. Their responsibilities include:

• Monitoring temperature and humidity in cheese caves
• Regularly turning and brushing cheese wheels
• Assessing cheese development through smell, touch, and visual inspection
• Deciding when a cheese has reached its peak and is ready for consumption
• Managing the microflora on cheese rinds

The role of the affineur is crucial in bringing out the best in each cheese, adapting their techniques to suit different styles and desired outcomes.

How Affinage Enhances Cheese Flavors

During affinage, several processes occur that enhance cheese flavors:

1. Proteolysis: Breakdown of proteins, contributing to texture and flavor development
2. Lipolysis: Breakdown of fats, creating aromatic compounds
3. Fermentation: Continued activity of bacteria and enzymes, developing complex flavors
4. Moisture loss: Concentrating flavors and altering texture
5. Rind development: Formation of distinctive flavors and aromas, especially in surface-ripened cheeses

These processes, carefully managed by the affineur, result in the wide array of flavors we associate with different cheese varieties.

How Does the Ageing Process Work for Different Types of Cheese?

The aging process varies significantly depending on the type of cheese, with each variety requiring specific conditions and care to reach its full potential.

The Ageing Process for Soft vs. Hard Cheese

Soft and hard cheeses age quite differently:

Factors Affecting the Ageing Process

Several factors influence how a cheese ages:

• Temperature: Affects the rate of biochemical reactions and microbial growth
• Humidity: Influences moisture loss and rind development
• Airflow: Impacts mold growth and rind formation
• Salt content: Affects moisture levels and microbial activity
• Size and shape of the cheese: Determines rate of moisture loss and flavor development
• Initial microflora: Influences flavor development and rind formation

Common Microbes Involved in Maturing Cheese

Various microorganisms play crucial roles in cheese maturation:

1. Lactic acid bacteria: Continue fermentation, developing flavors
2. Propionibacterium: Responsible for eye formation in Swiss-type cheeses
3. Penicillium roqueforti: Creates blue veins in blue cheeses
4. Penicillium camemberti: Forms the white rind on Brie and Camembert
5. Brevibacterium linens: Contributes to the orange color and pungent aroma of washed-rind cheeses

What Equipment and Environment are Needed for Cheese Aging?

Creating the right environment for cheese aging is crucial to the affinage process. Whether you’re a professional affineur or a home cheese enthusiast, understanding the necessary equipment and environmental conditions is key to success.

Creating the Perfect Cheese Cave

A cheese cave, whether natural or artificial, should provide the following:

• Consistent temperature: Usually between 10-15°C (50-59°F)
• High humidity: Typically 85-95% relative humidity
• Good air circulation: To prevent stagnant air and mold growth
• Cleanliness: To prevent contamination
• Darkness: To protect cheeses from light exposure

For home cheese makers, a dedicated refrigerator with a temperature and humidity controller can serve as an effective cheese cave.

Temperature and Humidity Control in Cheese Caves

Maintaining precise temperature and humidity is crucial:

1. Temperature control: Use a thermostat to maintain consistent temperature
2. Humidity control: Employ a hygrometer and humidifier or dehumidifier as needed
3. Monitoring: Regularly check and record temperature and humidity levels
4. Adjustments: Make small, gradual changes to maintain stability
5. Zoning: Create different microclimates for various cheese types if possible

Essential Tools for an Affineur

An affineur’s toolkit should include:

• Cheese knives: For cutting and sampling cheese
• Brushes: For cleaning and maintaining cheese rinds
• Thermometer and hygrometer: For monitoring environmental conditions
• Cheese boards: For aging and turning cheeses
• Cheese paper: For wrapping and storing cheese
• Cheese iron: For sampling cheese without cutting the wheel
• Record-keeping materials: For tracking cheese development

How to Choose the Right Rind for Different Cheeses?

The rind of a cheese plays a crucial role in its aging process and final flavor profile. Choosing the right rind treatment is an important decision in cheese making and affinage.

Types of Rinds and Their Impact on Flavor

There are several types of cheese rinds, each contributing differently to the cheese’s flavor and texture:

Washed Rind vs. Natural Rind: What’s the Difference?

The main differences between washed rind and natural rind cheeses are:

• Washed Rind:
  • Regularly bathed in brine, beer, wine, or spirits
  • Encourages growth of Brevibacterium linens
  • Often results in orange or reddish rinds
  • Typically more pungent aroma
  • Generally softer texture
• Natural Rind:
  • Allowed to develop naturally without washing
  • Often dry and rough in texture
  • Can develop various molds and bacteria
  • Usually results in earthy, complex flavors
  • Often used for harder cheeses

The Importance of Rind Management in Affinage

Proper rind management is crucial in affinage:

1. Moisture control: The rind helps regulate moisture loss from the cheese
2. Flavor development: Microbes on the rind contribute significantly to flavor
3. Protection: The rind acts as a barrier against harmful bacteria
4. Appearance: A well-managed rind enhances the cheese’s visual appeal
5. Texture: Rind development influences the cheese’s overall texture

Affineurs must regularly inspect and care for cheese rinds, brushing, washing, or turning as needed to ensure proper development.

What are the Best Practices for Grading and Tasting Aged Cheese?

Grading and tasting aged cheese is both an art and a science, requiring a refined palate and a thorough understanding of cheese characteristics.

Understanding Cheese Grading Standards

Cheese grading typically involves assessing several key factors:

• Flavor: The taste and aroma of the cheese
• Body and Texture: The cheese’s consistency and mouthfeel
• Color: The hue and uniformity of color
• Appearance: The overall look, including rind condition
• Finish: Any coatings or surface treatments

Grading systems vary by country and cheese type, but often use a point system to evaluate these characteristics.

How to Taste and Evaluate Aged Cheese

To properly taste and evaluate aged cheese:

1. Visual assessment: Examine the cheese’s color, texture, and rind
2. Aroma: Smell the cheese to detect its bouquet of scents
3. Touch: Feel the cheese’s texture, noting firmness and moisture
4. Taste: Sample the cheese, letting it warm in your mouth
5. Aftertaste: Note any lingering flavors after swallowing

When tasting, consider factors like saltiness, acidity, sweetness, bitterness, and umami. Also note texture characteristics like creaminess, graininess, or crystallization.

The Influence of Terroir on Cheese Flavors

Terroir, the environmental factors affecting a food’s characteristics, plays a significant role in cheese flavor:

Terroir influences cheese flavor through several factors:

• Pasture composition: The types of grasses and herbs animals graze on affect milk flavor
• Local microflora: Native bacteria and molds contribute to unique flavor profiles
• Climate: Temperature and humidity impact milk production and cheese aging
• Soil composition: Minerals in the soil influence the nutritional content of pastures
• Traditional methods: Local cheese making techniques passed down through generations

Understanding terroir helps in appreciating the unique characteristics of cheeses from different regions.

Where Can I Learn More About the Art of Affinage?

For those eager to delve deeper into the world of cheese aging, there are numerous resources available to expand your knowledge and skills.

Resources from the Academy of Cheese

The Academy of Cheese offers comprehensive education on all aspects of cheese, including affinage:

• Structured courses: From beginner to expert levels
• Cheese certification programs: Recognized qualifications for cheese professionals
• Webinars and workshops: On specific topics like affinage techniques
• Online resources: Articles, videos, and tasting guides
• Network of experts: Access to experienced cheese professionals

Visit their website to explore courses and resources tailored to your level of expertise and interest.

Online Courses and Workshops on Cheese Making

Several online platforms offer courses on cheese making and aging:

1. Coursera: Offers courses from universities on food science and fermentation
2. Udemy: Features practical courses on home cheese making and affinage
3. New England Cheesemaking Supply Co.: Provides online workshops and detailed guides
4. The Virtual Cheese Experience: Offers interactive online cheese tasting and education sessions
5. Guild of Fine Food: Provides training for cheese retailers and affineurs

These courses can provide a structured approach to learning about cheese aging from the comfort of your home.

Finding a Local Cheesemonger for Guidance

Local cheesemongers can be invaluable resources for learning about affinage:

• Hands-on experience: Many offer tastings and workshops
• Personalized advice: Can guide you based on your specific interests and local availability
• Access to diverse cheeses: Opportunity to taste and compare various aged cheeses
• Industry connections: May introduce you to local cheesemakers and affineurs
• Ongoing education: Regular visits can help you stay updated on new cheeses and techniques

To find a reputable cheesemonger:

1. Look for specialty cheese shops in your area
2. Check if they’re members of professional organizations like the American Cheese Society
3. Ask about their aging facilities and practices
4. Inquire about any classes or workshops they offer
5. Attend local food festivals or farmers markets to meet artisanal cheese makers

Conclusion

Mastering the art of affinage is a journey that combines science, tradition, and creativity. As you delve into the world of cheese aging, you’ll discover the profound impact that careful nurturing can have on the flavor, texture, and aroma of cheese. Whether you’re a home enthusiast or aspiring professional, understanding the principles of affinage will deepen your appreciation for the craft of cheese making and enhance your ability to create or select exceptional cheeses.

Remember that affinage is as much about patience and observation as it is about technique. Each cheese is unique, and learning to read its development is a skill that comes with practice and experience. As you continue your exploration of cheese aging, don’t hesitate to experiment, seek guidance from experts, and most importantly, trust your senses.

The world of cheese is vast and ever-evolving, with new techniques and styles constantly emerging. By embracing the art of affinage, you’re not just learning about cheese – you’re participating in a rich culinary tradition that spans centuries and cultures. So, whether you’re aging your first wheel of homemade cheddar or curating a selection of artisanal cheeses, approach the process with curiosity, respect, and a willingness to learn.

Happy cheese aging, and may your affinage adventures lead you to new heights of flavor and appreciation!

For more information on cheese making and aging, check out these helpful resources:

• Academy of Cheese
• Cheese Science Toolkit
• Culture: The Word on Cheese